Cartellata of pike, smoked potato, capers, and olives

Cartellata of pike, smoked potato, capers, and olives

Cartellata of pike, smoked potato, capers, and olives

INSPIRATION

Can a traditional dessert of Italian gastronomy be reimagined in a savory key? Yes, when it is the work of a master chef. Maurizio Bufi, executive chef of Ristorante Il Fagiano at the Grand Hotel Fasano, a 5-star Luxury haven nestled in Gardone Riviera (BS) on the shores of Lake Garda, has achieved this metamorphosis with the cartellata. This sweet emblem of Apulian pastry has been entirely reborn in its ingredients. “I have replaced the classic dough with a fresh pasta, which I sculpt into the fluted silhouette of the traditional fried pastry using a pastry wheel. In concert, in this signature creation of mine, I introduce pike, a local lacustrine fish, candied Garda lemon, dehydrated Taggiasca olive, capers from Gargnano on the Brescia shore of the lake, and finally, pickled caper leaves and a smoked potato foam.” The dish aspires to weave together the two regions closest to Chef Bufi’s heart: Apulia, his cradle and birthplace, and Lombardy, the land that adopted him into the culinary arts many years ago. Cartellata of pike, smoked potato, capers, and olives stands as a marriage of Mediterranean sensations, uniting two diverse lands of Italy that share poetic climatic affinities. The dish is currently offered on the restaurant's Tonalità menu, the chef’s most avant-garde journey, where culinary alchemy and experimentation reach their zenith.

PORTIONS (FOR 4 PERSONS)

THE RECIPE

Flesh of lake pike
White onion
Shallots
Garlic
Vegetable cream
Extra virgin olive oil
Bay laurel
Grated lemon zest
Thyme
Rosemary
Salt
White pepper
Potatoes
Rice nectar
Shavings of olive wood
Fine flour (00)
Re-milled semolina
Yolks
Egg
Seed oil
Parsley leaves
Green of the leek
Brined capers
Dehydrated Taggiasca olives
Candied lemon
Caper dust
Fresh oregano leaves 

200 g
30 g
20 g
1 clove
200 ml
50 g
1 leaf
half
2
2
to taste
to taste
200 g
200 g
to taste
150 g
50 g
2
1
50 g
15 g
15 g
12 leaves
12
to taste
to taste
to taste

FOR THE WHIPPED PIKE

Flesh of lake pike
White onion
Shallot
Clove of garlic
Plant-based cream
Extra virgin olive oil
Bay leaf
Grated lemon zest
Thyme
Rosemary
Salt
White pepper

200 g
30 g
20 g
1 clove
200 ml
50 g
1 leaf
half
2 sprigs
2 sprigs
to taste
to taste

FOR THE EMULSION OF SMOKED POTATO POTATO FOAM

Potatoes
Rice-based vegetable beverage
Salt
White pepper
Olive wood shavings

200 g
200 g
to taste
to taste
to taste

FOR THE CARTELLATE

Flour 00
Remilled semolina
Yolks
Egg

150 g
50 g
2
1

FOR THE EMERALD LEEK INFUSION

Seed oil
Parsley
Green leek tops

50 g
15 g leaves
15 g

FOR THE FINAL TOUCH

Caper in brine
Dehydrated Taggiasca olives
Candied lemon
Caper powder
Leaves of fresh oregano 

12 leaves
12
to taste
to taste
to taste

CURATION

  1. For the whipped pike:
    Place the pike fillet into a vacuum bag together with bay leaf, garlic, thyme, and rosemary. Cook sous-vide at 58u00b0C for 4 hours. Extract the noble fish from the bag, reserving its precious cooking juices for later. Clean the pike, meticulously removing all bones and setting them aside. In a stainless steel copper or pot, gently warm the olive oil, incorporating the finely minced onion and shallots, letting them acquire a delicate golden hue over the flame. Add the tender flesh of the pike. Sauté for a few moments, then pour in the reserved cooking nectar and the plant-based cream. Simmer until the fish gracefully dissolves and has imbibed raw liquid essence. Allow to cool. Transfer the fish to a stand mixer and whip, streaming in the extra virgin olive oil with poetic patience. Finish with salt, pepper, and a touch of lemon zest. Set aside.

  2. For the smoked potato foam:
    Boil the earth-born potatoes in salted water. Cut into pieces and transfer to a bowl. Smoke with olive wood chips using a smoking gun for 20 minutes, letting the wood's spirit infuse the starch. Transfer the smoked potatoes to a food processor. Pour in the warm vegetable milk. Blend at maximum velocity for 3 minutes. Adjust the salt and pepper. Transfer this velvet mixture into a siphon, inserting the first charger. Let the foam rest in silence. After 3 hours, or just prior to serving, insert the second charger. Keep the siphon warm in a bain-marie during service.

  3. For the Cartellate:
    In a dough mixer, gather the flours, the whole egg, and the golden yolks. Knead until you obtain a harmonious, supple, and dry dough. Roll out the pastry with the machine. Using a fluted pastry wheel, carve out ribbons 2 cm wide and 25 cm long. Pinch the edges with care. Turn and shape them to fashion a perfect circle. Let them rest in the cool silence of the refrigerator.

  4. For the green leek oil:
    Wash and pluck the leaves of parsey. Cut the green stalk of the leek. Wash and dry it meticulously alongside the parsley green. In a blender, emulsify all ingredients for 3 minutes. Transfer the vibrant mixture to a saucepan. Heat over the flame until it reaches 100u00b0C. Filter through a fine cheesecloth. Store the oil in the cold depths of the refrigerator to preserve its emerald luster.

  5. For the final touch:
    Cook the cartellate in salted water until perfectly al dente. Cradle the warm potato foam at the base of the plate. Gently rest the pasta upon it. Fill the inner chambers of the pastry spirals with the whipped pike, alternating gracefully with caper leaves, dehydrated olives, caper dust, and candied lemon. Crown the creation with the green leek oil and fresh oregano leaves.

INSPIRATION

Can a traditional dessert of Italian gastronomy be reimagined in a savory key? Yes, when it is the work of a master chef. Maurizio Bufi, executive chef of Ristorante Il Fagiano at the Grand Hotel Fasano, a 5-star Luxury haven nestled in Gardone Riviera (BS) on the shores of Lake Garda, has achieved this metamorphosis with the cartellata. This sweet emblem of Apulian pastry has been entirely reborn in its ingredients. “I have replaced the classic dough with a fresh pasta, which I sculpt into the fluted silhouette of the traditional fried pastry using a pastry wheel. In concert, in this signature creation of mine, I introduce pike, a local lacustrine fish, candied Garda lemon, dehydrated Taggiasca olive, capers from Gargnano on the Brescia shore of the lake, and finally, pickled caper leaves and a smoked potato foam.” The dish aspires to weave together the two regions closest to Chef Bufi’s heart: Apulia, his cradle and birthplace, and Lombardy, the land that adopted him into the culinary arts many years ago. Cartellata of pike, smoked potato, capers, and olives stands as a marriage of Mediterranean sensations, uniting two diverse lands of Italy that share poetic climatic affinities. The dish is currently offered on the restaurant's Tonalità menu, the chef’s most avant-garde journey, where culinary alchemy and experimentation reach their zenith.

PORTIONS (FOR 4 PERSONS)

THE RECIPE

Flesh of lake pike
White onion
Shallots
Garlic
Vegetable cream
Extra virgin olive oil
Bay laurel
Grated lemon zest
Thyme
Rosemary
Salt
White pepper
Potatoes
Rice nectar
Shavings of olive wood
Fine flour (00)
Re-milled semolina
Yolks
Egg
Seed oil
Parsley leaves
Green of the leek
Brined capers
Dehydrated Taggiasca olives
Candied lemon
Caper dust
Fresh oregano leaves 

200 g
30 g
20 g
1 clove
200 ml
50 g
1 leaf
half
2
2
to taste
to taste
200 g
200 g
to taste
150 g
50 g
2
1
50 g
15 g
15 g
12 leaves
12
to taste
to taste
to taste

FOR THE WHIPPED PIKE

Flesh of lake pike
White onion
Shallot
Clove of garlic
Plant-based cream
Extra virgin olive oil
Bay leaf
Grated lemon zest
Thyme
Rosemary
Salt
White pepper

200 g
30 g
20 g
1 clove
200 ml
50 g
1 leaf
half
2 sprigs
2 sprigs
to taste
to taste

FOR THE EMULSION OF SMOKED POTATO POTATO FOAM

Potatoes
Rice-based vegetable beverage
Salt
White pepper
Olive wood shavings

200 g
200 g
to taste
to taste
to taste

FOR THE CARTELLATE

Flour 00
Remilled semolina
Yolks
Egg

150 g
50 g
2
1

FOR THE EMERALD LEEK INFUSION

Seed oil
Parsley
Green leek tops

50 g
15 g leaves
15 g

FOR THE FINAL TOUCH

Caper in brine
Dehydrated Taggiasca olives
Candied lemon
Caper powder
Leaves of fresh oregano 

12 leaves
12
to taste
to taste
to taste

CURATION

  1. For the whipped pike:
    Place the pike fillet into a vacuum bag together with bay leaf, garlic, thyme, and rosemary. Cook sous-vide at 58u00b0C for 4 hours. Extract the noble fish from the bag, reserving its precious cooking juices for later. Clean the pike, meticulously removing all bones and setting them aside. In a stainless steel copper or pot, gently warm the olive oil, incorporating the finely minced onion and shallots, letting them acquire a delicate golden hue over the flame. Add the tender flesh of the pike. Sauté for a few moments, then pour in the reserved cooking nectar and the plant-based cream. Simmer until the fish gracefully dissolves and has imbibed raw liquid essence. Allow to cool. Transfer the fish to a stand mixer and whip, streaming in the extra virgin olive oil with poetic patience. Finish with salt, pepper, and a touch of lemon zest. Set aside.

  2. For the smoked potato foam:
    Boil the earth-born potatoes in salted water. Cut into pieces and transfer to a bowl. Smoke with olive wood chips using a smoking gun for 20 minutes, letting the wood's spirit infuse the starch. Transfer the smoked potatoes to a food processor. Pour in the warm vegetable milk. Blend at maximum velocity for 3 minutes. Adjust the salt and pepper. Transfer this velvet mixture into a siphon, inserting the first charger. Let the foam rest in silence. After 3 hours, or just prior to serving, insert the second charger. Keep the siphon warm in a bain-marie during service.

  3. For the Cartellate:
    In a dough mixer, gather the flours, the whole egg, and the golden yolks. Knead until you obtain a harmonious, supple, and dry dough. Roll out the pastry with the machine. Using a fluted pastry wheel, carve out ribbons 2 cm wide and 25 cm long. Pinch the edges with care. Turn and shape them to fashion a perfect circle. Let them rest in the cool silence of the refrigerator.

  4. For the green leek oil:
    Wash and pluck the leaves of parsey. Cut the green stalk of the leek. Wash and dry it meticulously alongside the parsley green. In a blender, emulsify all ingredients for 3 minutes. Transfer the vibrant mixture to a saucepan. Heat over the flame until it reaches 100u00b0C. Filter through a fine cheesecloth. Store the oil in the cold depths of the refrigerator to preserve its emerald luster.

  5. For the final touch:
    Cook the cartellate in salted water until perfectly al dente. Cradle the warm potato foam at the base of the plate. Gently rest the pasta upon it. Fill the inner chambers of the pastry spirals with the whipped pike, alternating gracefully with caper leaves, dehydrated olives, caper dust, and candied lemon. Crown the creation with the green leek oil and fresh oregano leaves.

INSPIRATION

Can a traditional dessert of Italian gastronomy be reimagined in a savory key? Yes, when it is the work of a master chef. Maurizio Bufi, executive chef of Ristorante Il Fagiano at the Grand Hotel Fasano, a 5-star Luxury haven nestled in Gardone Riviera (BS) on the shores of Lake Garda, has achieved this metamorphosis with the cartellata. This sweet emblem of Apulian pastry has been entirely reborn in its ingredients. “I have replaced the classic dough with a fresh pasta, which I sculpt into the fluted silhouette of the traditional fried pastry using a pastry wheel. In concert, in this signature creation of mine, I introduce pike, a local lacustrine fish, candied Garda lemon, dehydrated Taggiasca olive, capers from Gargnano on the Brescia shore of the lake, and finally, pickled caper leaves and a smoked potato foam.” The dish aspires to weave together the two regions closest to Chef Bufi’s heart: Apulia, his cradle and birthplace, and Lombardy, the land that adopted him into the culinary arts many years ago. Cartellata of pike, smoked potato, capers, and olives stands as a marriage of Mediterranean sensations, uniting two diverse lands of Italy that share poetic climatic affinities. The dish is currently offered on the restaurant's Tonalità menu, the chef’s most avant-garde journey, where culinary alchemy and experimentation reach their zenith.

PORTIONS (FOR 4 PERSONS)

THE RECIPE

Flesh of lake pike
White onion
Shallots
Garlic
Vegetable cream
Extra virgin olive oil
Bay laurel
Grated lemon zest
Thyme
Rosemary
Salt
White pepper
Potatoes
Rice nectar
Shavings of olive wood
Fine flour (00)
Re-milled semolina
Yolks
Egg
Seed oil
Parsley leaves
Green of the leek
Brined capers
Dehydrated Taggiasca olives
Candied lemon
Caper dust
Fresh oregano leaves 

200 g
30 g
20 g
1 clove
200 ml
50 g
1 leaf
half
2
2
to taste
to taste
200 g
200 g
to taste
150 g
50 g
2
1
50 g
15 g
15 g
12 leaves
12
to taste
to taste
to taste

FOR THE WHIPPED PIKE

Flesh of lake pike
White onion
Shallot
Clove of garlic
Plant-based cream
Extra virgin olive oil
Bay leaf
Grated lemon zest
Thyme
Rosemary
Salt
White pepper

200 g
30 g
20 g
1 clove
200 ml
50 g
1 leaf
half
2 sprigs
2 sprigs
to taste
to taste

FOR THE EMULSION OF SMOKED POTATO POTATO FOAM

Potatoes
Rice-based vegetable beverage
Salt
White pepper
Olive wood shavings

200 g
200 g
to taste
to taste
to taste

FOR THE CARTELLATE

Flour 00
Remilled semolina
Yolks
Egg

150 g
50 g
2
1

FOR THE EMERALD LEEK INFUSION

Seed oil
Parsley
Green leek tops

50 g
15 g leaves
15 g

FOR THE FINAL TOUCH

Caper in brine
Dehydrated Taggiasca olives
Candied lemon
Caper powder
Leaves of fresh oregano 

12 leaves
12
to taste
to taste
to taste

CURATION

  1. For the whipped pike:
    Place the pike fillet into a vacuum bag together with bay leaf, garlic, thyme, and rosemary. Cook sous-vide at 58u00b0C for 4 hours. Extract the noble fish from the bag, reserving its precious cooking juices for later. Clean the pike, meticulously removing all bones and setting them aside. In a stainless steel copper or pot, gently warm the olive oil, incorporating the finely minced onion and shallots, letting them acquire a delicate golden hue over the flame. Add the tender flesh of the pike. Sauté for a few moments, then pour in the reserved cooking nectar and the plant-based cream. Simmer until the fish gracefully dissolves and has imbibed raw liquid essence. Allow to cool. Transfer the fish to a stand mixer and whip, streaming in the extra virgin olive oil with poetic patience. Finish with salt, pepper, and a touch of lemon zest. Set aside.

  2. For the smoked potato foam:
    Boil the earth-born potatoes in salted water. Cut into pieces and transfer to a bowl. Smoke with olive wood chips using a smoking gun for 20 minutes, letting the wood's spirit infuse the starch. Transfer the smoked potatoes to a food processor. Pour in the warm vegetable milk. Blend at maximum velocity for 3 minutes. Adjust the salt and pepper. Transfer this velvet mixture into a siphon, inserting the first charger. Let the foam rest in silence. After 3 hours, or just prior to serving, insert the second charger. Keep the siphon warm in a bain-marie during service.

  3. For the Cartellate:
    In a dough mixer, gather the flours, the whole egg, and the golden yolks. Knead until you obtain a harmonious, supple, and dry dough. Roll out the pastry with the machine. Using a fluted pastry wheel, carve out ribbons 2 cm wide and 25 cm long. Pinch the edges with care. Turn and shape them to fashion a perfect circle. Let them rest in the cool silence of the refrigerator.

  4. For the green leek oil:
    Wash and pluck the leaves of parsey. Cut the green stalk of the leek. Wash and dry it meticulously alongside the parsley green. In a blender, emulsify all ingredients for 3 minutes. Transfer the vibrant mixture to a saucepan. Heat over the flame until it reaches 100u00b0C. Filter through a fine cheesecloth. Store the oil in the cold depths of the refrigerator to preserve its emerald luster.

  5. For the final touch:
    Cook the cartellate in salted water until perfectly al dente. Cradle the warm potato foam at the base of the plate. Gently rest the pasta upon it. Fill the inner chambers of the pastry spirals with the whipped pike, alternating gracefully with caper leaves, dehydrated olives, caper dust, and candied lemon. Crown the creation with the green leek oil and fresh oregano leaves.