PAJATA SAUCE

Milk-fed veal intestines, peeled plum tomatoes, white wine, and Pecorino Romano.

A demanding pursuit

Lazio

A duration of 150 minutes

340 Kcal

PAJATA SAUCE

Milk-fed veal intestines, peeled plum tomatoes, white wine, and Pecorino Romano.

A demanding pursuit

Lazio

A duration of 150 minutes

340 Kcal

PAJATA SAUCE

Milk-fed veal intestines, peeled plum tomatoes, white wine, and Pecorino Romano.

A demanding pursuit

Lazio

A duration of 150 minutes

340 Kcal

GENESIS

The ragù of pajata stands as one of the most authentic and celebrated pillars of Roman and Latian gastronomy, an undisputed symbol of that culinary lore known as the "fifth quarter"—representing all that remained of the beast once the noble cuts had been surrendered to the affluent classes. The Romanesque term "pajata" denotes the small intestine of the milk-fed calf or steer, which has not yet grazed upon grass. The essential soul of this ingredient resides in the chyme, the substance enfolded within the casing; composed solely of curdled mother's milk, it bestows upon the dish a singular, velvety texture, marked by a characteristically tart yet sweet nuance. Historically, this rich sauce found its cradle in the Testaccio district, the quarter where Rome's great municipal slaughterhouse stood at the close of the sixteenth century. The laborers of the facility, known as "scorticatori" or skinners, were often compensated in kind with the very remnants of the slaughter. Thus, the local taverns began to fashion extraordinary recipes to elevate these offals, marrying the pajata with tomato to dress the pasta. Though European sanitary regulations in the early 2000s temporarily restricted the consumption of steer pajata for safety reasons, the tradition endured through the use of veal, and continues to be guarded in historical recipe books as an invaluable cultural heritage of Latium's culinary art.

PORTIONS (FOR 4 PERSONS)

RECIPE

Pajata of milk-fed calf
Golden onion
Carrot
Stalk of celery
Garlic
Dry white wine
Fresh peeled tomatoes
Fresh parsley
Pecorino Romano
Extra virgin olive oil
Salt
Black pepper
Lard

1 kg
1
1
1
1 clove
1 glass
800 g
1 bouquet
100 g
To taste
To taste
To taste
To taste

CURATION

For the condiment:

Take the pajata and rinse it with utmost delicacy under cold running water, taking care not to rupture the casing lest its precious essence escape. Divide the meat into pieces of some twenty centimeters, and bind the two ends of each segment with kitchen twine, shaping them into elegant little rings.
Prepare a most delicate battuto by finely mincing the onion, the carrot, the rib of celery, and a small morsel of lard. Warm a thread of extra virgin olive oil in a terracotta vessel or a heavy-bottomed saucepan, introduce the whole clove of garlic and the minced aromatic vegetables, then let them sweat over a gentle fire until the onion becomes translucent.
Nestle the rings of pajata into the pan and raise the flame slightly. Let the meat brown evenly for some ten minutes, turning it with gentle care so as not to pierce the casing. Once the meat has gathered color, pour in the glass of dry white wine and allow it to evaporate entirely.
Crush the fresh peeled tomatoes with a fork and add them to the vessel along with a pinch of salt and a generous grinding of black pepper. Lower the flame to its absolute minimum, cover the pan with a lid, and let the sauce simmer slowly, whispering for at least two hours. Stir occasionally with a wooden spoon and, should the sauce become too dry, grace it with a drop of warm water.
At the end of this slow journey, when the pajata is superlatively tender and the sauce has become dense and concentrated, extinguish the flame and perfume the dish with freshly chopped parsley. Serve the condiment piping hot, crowned with an abundant dusting of grated Pecorino Romano.

GENESIS

The ragù of pajata stands as one of the most authentic and celebrated pillars of Roman and Latian gastronomy, an undisputed symbol of that culinary lore known as the "fifth quarter"—representing all that remained of the beast once the noble cuts had been surrendered to the affluent classes. The Romanesque term "pajata" denotes the small intestine of the milk-fed calf or steer, which has not yet grazed upon grass. The essential soul of this ingredient resides in the chyme, the substance enfolded within the casing; composed solely of curdled mother's milk, it bestows upon the dish a singular, velvety texture, marked by a characteristically tart yet sweet nuance. Historically, this rich sauce found its cradle in the Testaccio district, the quarter where Rome's great municipal slaughterhouse stood at the close of the sixteenth century. The laborers of the facility, known as "scorticatori" or skinners, were often compensated in kind with the very remnants of the slaughter. Thus, the local taverns began to fashion extraordinary recipes to elevate these offals, marrying the pajata with tomato to dress the pasta. Though European sanitary regulations in the early 2000s temporarily restricted the consumption of steer pajata for safety reasons, the tradition endured through the use of veal, and continues to be guarded in historical recipe books as an invaluable cultural heritage of Latium's culinary art.

PORTIONS (FOR 4 PERSONS)

RECIPE

Pajata of milk-fed calf
Golden onion
Carrot
Stalk of celery
Garlic
Dry white wine
Fresh peeled tomatoes
Fresh parsley
Pecorino Romano
Extra virgin olive oil
Salt
Black pepper
Lard

1 kg
1
1
1
1 clove
1 glass
800 g
1 bouquet
100 g
To taste
To taste
To taste
To taste

CURATION

For the condiment:

Take the pajata and rinse it with utmost delicacy under cold running water, taking care not to rupture the casing lest its precious essence escape. Divide the meat into pieces of some twenty centimeters, and bind the two ends of each segment with kitchen twine, shaping them into elegant little rings.
Prepare a most delicate battuto by finely mincing the onion, the carrot, the rib of celery, and a small morsel of lard. Warm a thread of extra virgin olive oil in a terracotta vessel or a heavy-bottomed saucepan, introduce the whole clove of garlic and the minced aromatic vegetables, then let them sweat over a gentle fire until the onion becomes translucent.
Nestle the rings of pajata into the pan and raise the flame slightly. Let the meat brown evenly for some ten minutes, turning it with gentle care so as not to pierce the casing. Once the meat has gathered color, pour in the glass of dry white wine and allow it to evaporate entirely.
Crush the fresh peeled tomatoes with a fork and add them to the vessel along with a pinch of salt and a generous grinding of black pepper. Lower the flame to its absolute minimum, cover the pan with a lid, and let the sauce simmer slowly, whispering for at least two hours. Stir occasionally with a wooden spoon and, should the sauce become too dry, grace it with a drop of warm water.
At the end of this slow journey, when the pajata is superlatively tender and the sauce has become dense and concentrated, extinguish the flame and perfume the dish with freshly chopped parsley. Serve the condiment piping hot, crowned with an abundant dusting of grated Pecorino Romano.

GENESIS

The ragù of pajata stands as one of the most authentic and celebrated pillars of Roman and Latian gastronomy, an undisputed symbol of that culinary lore known as the "fifth quarter"—representing all that remained of the beast once the noble cuts had been surrendered to the affluent classes. The Romanesque term "pajata" denotes the small intestine of the milk-fed calf or steer, which has not yet grazed upon grass. The essential soul of this ingredient resides in the chyme, the substance enfolded within the casing; composed solely of curdled mother's milk, it bestows upon the dish a singular, velvety texture, marked by a characteristically tart yet sweet nuance. Historically, this rich sauce found its cradle in the Testaccio district, the quarter where Rome's great municipal slaughterhouse stood at the close of the sixteenth century. The laborers of the facility, known as "scorticatori" or skinners, were often compensated in kind with the very remnants of the slaughter. Thus, the local taverns began to fashion extraordinary recipes to elevate these offals, marrying the pajata with tomato to dress the pasta. Though European sanitary regulations in the early 2000s temporarily restricted the consumption of steer pajata for safety reasons, the tradition endured through the use of veal, and continues to be guarded in historical recipe books as an invaluable cultural heritage of Latium's culinary art.

PORTIONS (FOR 4 PERSONS)

RECIPE

Pajata of milk-fed calf
Golden onion
Carrot
Stalk of celery
Garlic
Dry white wine
Fresh peeled tomatoes
Fresh parsley
Pecorino Romano
Extra virgin olive oil
Salt
Black pepper
Lard

1 kg
1
1
1
1 clove
1 glass
800 g
1 bouquet
100 g
To taste
To taste
To taste
To taste

CURATION

For the condiment:

Take the pajata and rinse it with utmost delicacy under cold running water, taking care not to rupture the casing lest its precious essence escape. Divide the meat into pieces of some twenty centimeters, and bind the two ends of each segment with kitchen twine, shaping them into elegant little rings.
Prepare a most delicate battuto by finely mincing the onion, the carrot, the rib of celery, and a small morsel of lard. Warm a thread of extra virgin olive oil in a terracotta vessel or a heavy-bottomed saucepan, introduce the whole clove of garlic and the minced aromatic vegetables, then let them sweat over a gentle fire until the onion becomes translucent.
Nestle the rings of pajata into the pan and raise the flame slightly. Let the meat brown evenly for some ten minutes, turning it with gentle care so as not to pierce the casing. Once the meat has gathered color, pour in the glass of dry white wine and allow it to evaporate entirely.
Crush the fresh peeled tomatoes with a fork and add them to the vessel along with a pinch of salt and a generous grinding of black pepper. Lower the flame to its absolute minimum, cover the pan with a lid, and let the sauce simmer slowly, whispering for at least two hours. Stir occasionally with a wooden spoon and, should the sauce become too dry, grace it with a drop of warm water.
At the end of this slow journey, when the pajata is superlatively tender and the sauce has become dense and concentrated, extinguish the flame and perfume the dish with freshly chopped parsley. Serve the condiment piping hot, crowned with an abundant dusting of grated Pecorino Romano.